1 SELF-TESTING: BASIC CONSIDERATIONS

– Equipment: in addition to the App, you will need:

  • a fingerboard, noting that only the R-Evolution Board will allow you to use the App in its automatic mode to carry out self-testing with the maximum reliability and the workouts with high precision;
  • a couple meters of cord and a pulley, ideally those supplied with the R-Evolution Board;
  • a climbing harness to attach the weight you may use for weighted or counter-weighted finger hangs;
  • a set of weight plates to use as added weight or counterweight (half of your body weight should be enough, but more may be better);
  • a stretch of rope with a knot on one end to hold the weight plates and attach them to your harness, or to the pulley’s cord for counter-weighted finger hangs;
  • two o three carabiners;
  • a bathroom scale to check your body weight;
  • optionally, a thermometer and a hygrometer to check the room temperature and humidity during self-testing.

– Distribution: regardless of the type of self-test, its sessions should be planned, whenever possible, in consecutive days or at least very close in time. Only three tests are done per day (four in the case of a follow-up self-test done in one day) to avoid any alteration of the results as a consequence of the fatigue. The duration of a session will hardly get above 60´, warm up included.

– Grip positions: every test is performed by means of two hands dead hangs using all the fingers, except the thumb, on an edge. The grip positions that should be employed are the half crimp or the open crimp. Crimp or full crimp positions should be avoided as they imply an increased risk of injury at the high intensities at which some of these tests are set.

– Parallel activities: after a self-test session (except for the last one), we suggest you to avoid doing more activities involving the fingers, which includes fingerboard exercises, campusing and climbing, as this may cause additional fatigue that could alter the results of the next day. You can do, if you wish, other kinds of exercises like joint mobility and stability work, or stretching.

Links

How to make self-testing compatible with training

Scientific foundations behind self-testing