18 MAXIMUM FINGER STRENGTH WORKOUTS

In these workouts only a few finger hangs are made for each grip position (usually a maximum of 5 at the lowest levels and 10 at the highest). In the App they are configured as an undefined number of sets of one repetition*, and you should perform as many as you can for each grip position, always complying with the indicated effort margin. The effort margin (EM) is the difference between the maximum time you could achieve (possible time PT) doing a finger hang at a particular intensity to the point of muscle failure, and the actual time (AT) defined for each repetition in the workout. For example, a 6″(10) finger hang defines a repetition of 6 seconds over 10 you could endure, meaning an EM of 4″ is being applied.

Therefore, the first thing to do is finding the intensity or weight (we’ll call it work weight WW) making you reach muscle failure on a repetition with a duration equal to the PT set for the first grip position. To do this follow the procedure described in the maximum finger strength specific warm up.

After finding the WW, rest for 5′ and use this weight to perform all the repetitions you can on the first grip. The duration of each repetition should be the AT indicated for the workout. Memorize the sensation you have at the end of the first repetition as a subjective reference of the EM for the others. End the workout for that particular grip when you feel, on a repetition, that you can’t comply anymore with that EM (meaning you wouldn’t be able to reach the PT in that repetition). When finished, tap on ‘End’ to move to the next grip (or end the workout if it’s the only grip set on it).
Rest for the time indicated in the timer (if you need to rest less, you can tap on redo to proceed whenever you want). Repeat the previous procedure with the next grips. In summary:

  1. find the proper WW for each new grip position doing a ‘weight adjustment test’, and
  2. perform all the repetitions you can, each one with a duration equal to the AT, and always complying with the EM defined in the workout.

Note: finding the WW will be easier after the 1st session since a previous reference will already exist (remember that you can update the value of the weight for each grip position during the ‘weight adjustment test’). This will allow you to adjust in each session the required effort to your current physical abilities and will allow you to check the level of adaptation you may be achieving. If you find that the WW has decreased more than 5% in relation to the previous session, we advise you to postpone the workout between 8 and 24 hours.

The usual length of a maximum strength cycle is 3-4 weeks.

* Normally, these workouts would be configured by 1 set of many repetitions, but here they are presented as many sets of 1 repetition (xset x 1rep) for each grip position. Because of the internal design of the App, this is required to make the Timer remain in standby after the rest time has elapsed, only starting again when you hang on the board or tap on the ‘play’ icon, allowing you to begin the next repetition in a controlled way, which is essential in this kind of workouts.

Links

Example of a maximum finger strength workout

Maximum finger strength specific warm up

How to correctly perform finger hangs

Postural hygiene for finger hangs

Scientific foundations behind the pre-configured workouts