2 INITIAL SELF-TEST: GENERAL FEATURES

– Goals: approximate your occlusion threshold (OT) and assess your finger strength and specific endurance.

– Duration: 4 days.

– Features: it is the first self-test that must be carried out. During the days 1 to 3 your OT, an essential parameter to validly assess the specific endurance in climbing, will be approximated. The last day will be used to evaluate the strength and the aerobic and anaerobic specific endurance of your fingers. Since it requires many days to be performed, we suggest doing it at the beginning of your climbing season and only once a year, unless you find a noticeable variation in the results of two consecutive follow-up self-tests. This could mean that your OT has changed and in this case you should test it again even if a year hasn’t elapsed since the last one.

Links

The occlusion threshold

Scientific foundations behind self-testing

How to make self-testing compatible with training