28 THE WORKOUT EDITOR

The Editor is a tool to create or modify any finger hang workout you want. Tapping on + in the home screen of ‘My workouts’ will open it to create a workout from scratch. If you rather need to modify an existing one, tap on  next to its description (the other two icons,  and , will start or delete it). Please note that you can also edit any pre-configured workout you may have imported to ‘My workouts’.

Using the Editor is quite intuitive, however we explain here below the different elements of a workout you can configure:

– Name: it should be short (15 characters maximum), and preferably unique.

– Description: in our opinion, the most useful description should be schematic and include the various elements of the workout like the rep and rest times, as well as the number of sets, reps and grip positions it will have. The description of any pre-configured workout you may have imported to ‘My workouts’ will let you know at a glance its features.

– Timer mode: you can choose between two modes:

  • Countdown: it’s the most usual mode in the finger hang workouts. It allows you to set a defined time for each repetition. In each one of them the timer will run from the chosen value to zero.
  • Chrono: this mode is usually chosen to do finger hangs to the point of muscle failure. It allows to have a timer running from zero to “infinite”. When this mode is selected, some unused elements of the Editor will disappear, making the UI simpler.

– Activate interval accuracy: if you select this option, the App will give you information on how accurately you’ve complied with the work:rest ratio in each set of the workout. This information will be displayed in the Timer next to the ‘Accuracy’ label (under the progress bars) during the rest periods between sets. The value that is shown is the result of comparing the average of the real duration of the rest periods you’ve done between repetitions in the set, with the defined objective time for those periods. This information is essential in the specific endurance tests, as well as in the workouts based on intermittent finger hangs. This option will be only active if:

  • the Timer is set on ‘Countdown’ mode,
  • the number of repetitions set in the ‘Total reps’ field is more than 1,
  • the Timer is set in automatic mode (by default).

– Repetitions: the parameters that configure them are:

  • The duration of each one,
  • the number of repetitions to do per set (‘Total reps’), which can be:
    • a defined number,
    • an undefined number, meaning you’ll be able to do as many repetitions as you want or can in each set,
  • the duration of the rest periods between repetitions.

– Sets: the parameters that configure them are:

  • The number of sets, which can be:
    • a defined number,
    • an undefined number, meaning you’ll be able to do as many sets as you want or can,
  • the rest periods between sets, for which you can choose:
    • a custom time, or
    • a time based on the duration of the previous set. This option is very useful when the real work time isn’t known in advance (for example, when the number of repetitions is undefined), and the rest period between sets must be defined in accordance to this. It is also useful in the handling of the training loads of the workouts, as it allows to easily modify their density, which is the relationship between the work and rest times.
  • The duration of the rest periods, which, according to the selected timer mode, will be:
    • a defined quantity of minutes and seconds if ‘Custom time’ has been selected,
    • calculated multiplying the duration of the previous set by a factor that you can select, if ‘Based on previous set’ has been selected. For example, if each set in your workout has 6 x 10″ reps with 5″ rest periods, and you choose a x2 rest factor for the rest period between sets, then the value of the latter will be (6 x 10″ + 5 x 5″) x 2 = 85″ x 2 = 170″.

– Grips: the parameters that configure them are:

  • Which grips you want to train. This refers to the position the hand takes on a hold, not the shape of the hold itself. For example, on an edge shaped hold you can use multiple grip positions like an open grip, a half crimp or a full crimp. To choose each grip you want to add to the workout, tap on + and select those you want from 19 available in the list. The order of selection will define their order during the workout. To delete any grip from the workout, tap on its corresponding .
    Each grip has 3 parameters you will have to configure:
    • The finger hang modality (one hand or two hands),
    • the size or depth of the hold, and
    • the additional weight or counterweight you want to use for each one.
      Notes: You don’t need to set the size of the hold for the grips that are performed on slopers, since these holds don’t have a depth but rather an inclination that already appears in the corresponding description.
      If you select ‘One hand’ for a particular grip:
    • you will be able to set a different added weight or counterweight for each hand, but you will have to use the same hold size for each one. These parameters can be modified in the Editor, and also in the Timer screen after the ‘weight adjustment test’, when this option has been activated (see below),
    • you will have to do the defined number of repetitions with each hand, alternating left and right in each one. For example, if you configure 4 reps per set, you will have to do 8 reps in total, 4 with each hand, in the order left, right, left, right, etc.,
    • you will switch hands during the rest periods between repetitions, meaning that the time a single hand will rest between its own repetitions will be two times the rest time plus the rep time of the other hand. If the timer has been set in ‘Chrono’ mode, the App will set only one repetition per grip. In this case the default time set to switch hands is 20″.
  • The rest timer mode (similar configuration as in the sets).
  • The duration of the rest periods between grips (idem).
  • The weight adjustment test: activating this option may be very useful if you’re working with weight, since it will allow you to easily adjust it in each session. It makes available a chrono at the beginning of the workout of each grip to test you before the workout itself. You can reset this chrono as many times as you need by tapping on , until you’ve determined the appropriate weight you should use.
    Tap on the ‘kg’ to enter the new value for the weight (also on ‘mm’ if you want to enter a new value for the size of the hold). When one hand hangs have been configured, two ‘kg’ text boxes will appear, to let you enter a different weight for each hand. Once you’ve finished the adjustment test for both hands tap on  to confirm the changes and begin the workout.
    If for a particular grip or workout you want to skip this test, start and immediately stop its chrono and tap on .

Note: All the parameters configured in the Editor will be applied to each grip selected in the workout. Therefore, the whole workout will consist on performing all the repetitions and sets with each grip position, resting between them the corresponding defined time (custom or based on previous duration).

To save the workout you’ve just configured, or modified, and go back to the home screen of ‘My workouts’, tap on .

LINKS

Automatic and manual mode