16 TRAINING DYNAMICS

To help you train more effectively in the short and medium term, after completing each self-test, the App proposes you a training dynamic configured on the basis of its results and on whether your goals lean towards sport climbing or bouldering.

The dynamics appear in the self-testing records along with the indicators of your local physiological profile. One dynamic is available for each self-test that has been carried out. Each one of them is centered on the physical capacities that you should prioritize in your training, and on the specific sequence of their prevalent development you should follow in the short term. Therefore, each capacity included in these dynamics should be trained in priority along a full cycle (or mesocycle), a time structure used in training during which some particular contents are done to improve certain capacities. The duration of each cycle can oscillate between 2 and 6 weeks, depending on the capacity that needs to be developed. On the HELP texts available for each of the capacities considered in the dynamics, you’ll find information about their usual duration, which is independent of the kind of exercises that are used to train them (finger hangs or other).

During each cycle, the workouts focused on the contents stimulating the adaptations that improve the targeted capacity, have a high frequency, around 2-3 times a week, which means they are usually separated by 48-72 hours. This frequency depends on the parallel contents you may be doing and on the training load of each workout. It could go up to 4 or 5 times a week when the training loads of the priority contents are not too high (usually, this is only possible with aerobic or aerobic/anaerobic endurance contents).

On the other hand, having a priority content doesn’t mean that you should only train it, neither that you should necessarily use finger hangs for that. In other words, to work on the capacities indicated by the dynamic proposed by the App, you can use its workouts based on finger hangs, but this is not mandatory, and sometimes even not advisable. Ideally, you should decide this according to an efficiency criterion: finger hangs are better for some contents, while not for others. But often, the criterion used is “necessity”, like not having the time or the means to work differently than by the use of finger hangs.

In this App you’ll find information on how to develop each one of the capacities that are considered in the dynamics, by means of finger hangs or other ones (like rock climbing itself), and on how to combine the priority contents with the parallel ones, according to your level and experience in the activity.

Links

Pre-configured workouts

Local physiological profile

When and how to start training with finger hangs

How to combine the finger hang workouts with other training contents

How to organize the finger hang workouts during the season and reach a peak of form